Basler Goes on a Winter Mountaineering Course (Tatra Mountains, Poland): Top Highlights & 12 Essential Tips
DETAILS*
Duration: 4 days
Difficulty:
mental:
physical:
Distance: n/a
Incline: n/a
Decline: n/a
The highest point:
Day 2: 2045 m above sea level (Mniszek)
Day 3: 2172 m above sea level (Szpiglasowy Wierch)
About our instructor: Damian Granowski and his Drytooling school.
We booked this course with Damian Granowski, a certified Polish mountaineering instructor (PZA; Polish Mountaineering Association) and the founder of Drytooling.pl and Kursyskalkowe.pl. Damian has been climbing since the early 2000s, has extensive experience in sport climbing, traditional climbing, drytooling, ice climbing, and winter alpinism in the Tatras and the Alps, and has been running his school since 2010.
What sets Damian apart is the combination of serious technical knowledge, a calm and focused teaching style, and a genuinely supportive approach; he makes sure every member of the group understands both the why and the how behind each technique. Not mentioning his great sense of humor (but this is not a professional trade, but highly appreciate by us). Courses are available in Polish and English. We highly recommend checking his website for upcoming courses, especially if you are planning to step into winter or high-altitude terrain for the first time.
Website: drytooling.pl and courses: kursyskalkowe.pl
OUR EXPERIENCE:
Starting point:
We flew into Kraków (there are plenty of easyJet connections from Basel) and took a 1.5-hour car ride to Zakopane, then to Morskie Oko. The mountain hut at Morskie Oko was our base for the entire course.
TIP #1: The "old" hut building at Morskie Oko has a fully equipped kitchen where you can cook your own meals. If you plan to use it, would recommend booking your stay in that building specifically.
TIP #2: The "new" hut building has a restaurant but be aware of limited opening hours and the fact that they only accept cash. No card payments.
TIP #3: Bring your own flip flops.
Day 1: Ice Axe, Crampons & Avalanche ABC
Our first half-day session focused on the fundamentals: how to use an ice axe and crampons. We worked with strap-on crampons, though Damian also explained the differences between strap-on, semi-automatic, and step-in types. Useful to know before you invest in your own gear.
The most valuable part of the session was learning the self-arrest – how to stop a fall using an ice axe. We practiced it in multiple positions: the standard seated position (legs forward), lying on your stomach, and lying on your back with the head facing both up- and down-hill. It sounds straightforward, but definitely it is not. By doing it repeatedly, from different positions, in real snow conditions, is what actually builds the muscle memory.
The second part of the day was dedicated to Avalanche ABC, equipment use, and rescue techniques.
Foto by Damian Granowski.
We practiced finding a “buried person” (a backpack with a transceiver inside) and carried out a simulated rescue event in teams, rotating roles and changing team sizes. A few things I did not expect to learn:
- avalanche transceivers can differ in operation between models, so it is important to know how to use different types, not just your own;
- digging in compacted snow is physically demanding and requires technique, not just strength;
- never step over the area where someone is buried, you risk collapsing the air pocket around their head, which may be the only oxygen they have left.
The day ended with a theoretical session on avalanche formation, types, triggers, and how to behave in avalanche terrain. Damian also showed us some genuinely eye-opening videos, including real avalanche footage and GoPro recordings from rescuers – the dual perspective (rescuer and buried person) was something I will not forget easily.
Day 2: Mniszek (2045 m)
We started our day in the room, learning basics of gear, how to make specific knots, their function and trying it out. Knots we learned:
• Figure-8 Follow-Through – the most common knot for attaching to a harness
• Figure-8 on a Bight – used for creating loops and setting anchors
• Clove Hitch – a blocking knot on a carabiner, used for building belaying stations
• Half Hitch – used in combination with the clove hitch and for belaying
• Alpine Butterfly – used for creating a loop in the middle of a rope
TIP #4: for a visual guide to each of these knots, Damian has step-by-step photo tutorials with explanations on his blog at drytooling.pl/serwis/art/patenty. Please look for a specific knot type.
After the classroom session, we went out to apply everything on the slope Mniszek (2045 m), using moving rope belay and setting up stations on the way up. The incline was steep, above 35°, and for me personally it was mentally demanding, especially being in the lead position.
Foto by Damian Granowski.
At one particularly icy section, Piotr slipped. It happened fast, and it was an immediate, real-life demonstration of why you belay each other, the rope and myself held. That single moment made everything from Day 1 click into place.
Foto by Damian Granowski.
Watching Damian navigate the same terrain completely unroped (up until the top of Mniszek, where all of us were secured) was also instructive: it showed that skill and experience genuinely do change how you move in the mountains. Each of us can get there, but you have to put in the work.
On the way down, we deliberately took a different route to explore varying snow conditions, on the valley floor and on the north-facing slope.
Foto by Damian Granowski.
We stumbled upon a snow cave that someone had built as emergency shelter. It was still intact after several days, which gave us a chance to explore it – including checking how temperature changes inside and how fresh air circulation is maintained. After our avalanche rescue exercises, seeing the volume of that cave, we knew how much work it took to dig out something like this.
The evening continued with theory: more on avalanches, and a session on planning winter and high-altitude excursions.
Day 3: Szpiglasowy Wierch (2172 m)
Day 3 was intense, and the most memorable. We headed to Szpiglasowy Wierch (2172 m), this time without moving rope belay, navigating winter terrain independently as a group.
The route involves crossing high avalanche-risk zones, which means maintaining proper spacing between people and staying alert the entire time. We used the summer hiking path due to sustained low avalanche risk (level 2, stable over several days), and because our previous day on Mniszek had given us good insight into the valley’s snow conditions. During our stay, Wyżni and Niżni Staw Staszica, two of the Tatra's lakes, were completely frozen over and buried under snow.
There were two steep technical sections before Szpiglasowa Przełęcz (2110 m). A few courses were running simultaneously, so we had to queue at the narrow sections, which meant standing still in cold and exposed conditions. This is something you do not anticipate until you are there: you have to be dressed properly, that works during movement, and also when you are still for 20 minutes.
TIP #5: Dress in layers you can quickly add and remove. Standing in a queue on an exposed icy slope is very different from moving uphill, you can get cold very fast, even in good conditions.
I managed both steep sections on the way up by myself: the first one confidently (see the first photo below), the second one with more focus, as the wall was icy (on the photo there is Piotr in blue jacket).
Foto by Damian Granowski.
From Szpiglasowa Przełęcz to the summit of Szpiglasowy Wierch it is a short gain in elevation, but the path narrows and gets busy.
And then came the part I had not fully prepared for: going back down.
At the summit, my confidence evaporated.
Foto by Barbara Jakubiec.
Altitude, fatigue, and the view of the descent in front of me all hit at once. This is exactly why I signed up for this course, to face the fears I did not fully know I had. Damian was there with me for the first section down to Szpiglasowa Przełęcz, which helped me get past the initial hesitation and fear. Once I started moving, my head calmed down and I found my rhythm.
The most technically demanding part was a short, very icy section where you descend face-in to the slope, trusting only your front crampon points and ice axe. The steps cut by previous hikers were deep, meaning I had to step down further than felt natural for my height. Then a small traverse while still losing elevation. That section took everything I had, mentally. Damian was close to me - giving me mental support. I knew I just hiked this part all up by myself, but going down is completely different challenge.
Later we crossed to a different slope we had not been on, navigated a wide gully and came down in a way that felt easy and manageable. Group fatigue (or mostly mine) was real by that point, and we made smart decisions as a group about route choice. Watching others on the same slope was its own lesson: Piotr chose to descend facing the wall for speed, I chose zig-zag. Both work. Confidence and experience really are the biggest variables in winter mountaineering.
It was super inspiring to see people approaching the summit with skis on their backs, planning to ski down from Szpiglasowy Wierch. There were many different emotions with the same mountain on the same day experienced by different people.
The evening session covered winter route planning in more detail: where to check weather conditions, what to look for in forecast data, and, crucially, why you should not just follow summer hiking paths in winter.
TIP #6: In Switzerland, dedicated winter hiking paths are marked in pink on SchweizMobil – follow those for mid-altitude terrain. For hikes above 3000 m, use the SAC (Swiss Alpine Club) portal for route descriptions and maps specific to winter conditions.
Day 4: Ice climbing & snow anchor building
The final day was about putting everything into a new context: ice climbing.
We learned two main skills: belaying a second climber, and climbing up using two ice axes. The technique for placing an ice axe efficiently, minimizing energy while maximizing grip, is specific, and it takes practice. We also learned how to install ice screws and set up anchors on ice.
For Piotr, ice climbing was the highlight of the course.
For me, it was interesting and technical, but the belay work was what I enjoyed most. On pure ice, your only points of contact are your crampons and axes. After three days of building trust in those two tools, it was actually striking to notice how much my confidence in them had grown. At the same time, after those 3 days of real-life experience, I realized I do not have enough power in my arms to use put the ice axe still in the ice.
At the end of a day we also tried how to build snow bollard (informally called snow mushroom) and other ways of securing going down sections with steep incline. That was very useful, and very successful lesson!
Foto by Damian Granowski.
What we packed:
We brought our own via ferrata sets (harness and helmet). We did not own crampons or an ice axe, and after this course, we decided not to rush into buying them.
TIP #7: Before buying crampons or an ice axe, think about how often you will use them. Rental options in Switzerland are solid: Transa, for example, offers good pricing. You would need to rent more than 12 times before the rental cost exceeds the purchase price. It is also worth trying a few different models before committing to one set you will use for years.
We also brought our own small crampons, the compact, low-profile type, which were fine for the icy access path up to Morskie Oko from the parking area.
For clothing, we went fully loaded: ski/snowboard trousers, base layers, softshell trousers, down jackets and vests from Pajak, and Hagloöfs rain jackets on top. The layering system worked well, we could add or remove pieces quickly depending on the activity. And also select different variants and try them out.
TIP #8: Never underestimate gloves. Take every pair you own. Thin liner gloves, warm midlayer gloves, waterproof shells. You will use all of them at different points, and having cold hands on steep ice or in the exposed parts is not just uncomfortable – it is dangerous.
TIP #9: Get gaiters and always have them with you. Snow getting into your boots melts into your socks and you will spend the rest of the day with cold, wet feet. Worth every penny.
TIP #10: One useful discovery: after the course I found my summer hiking shoes were no longer waterproof. I treated them with Nikwax, it works really well and extends the life of the shoe significantly.
TIP #11: Make sure your hat fits under your helmet. Try it before you go, many hats are too bulky and leave the helmet sitting too high, which is both uncomfortable and reduces protection.
TIP #12: Take isotonic tablets or electrolytes with you. The water at the mountain hut has no added minerals. After a full day of physical and mental effort in cold conditions, your hydration needs more than plain water.
We hiked with large main backpacks and used compact Deuter climbing backpacks for daily excursions, these have secure closures designed specifically for climbing (nothing falls out). One important note on backpack volume: do not forget that your avalanche kit (shovel, probe) needs to fit in there. Factor that in when choosing your backpack size.
And a hot thermos, never leave without one. Hot coffee or tea halfway up a snowy slope is a luxury that boost your motivation and energy.
Highlights:
Sunrise at Morskie Oko. We got up early on Day 2 to have our coffee at the lakeside before the course started. We took our Basler Coffee Drip with us and enjoyed it in nature. The winter light, the silence, the reflections on the summits – it was one of those moments that make the whole trip worth it.
Winter transforms everything. The Tatras in January look completely different from their summer version. The peaks are buried in white, the colors are extraordinary, deep blue shadows, sharp ridgelines, and a lot of cloudy sky.
Pushing the comfort zone with real support. Learning these skills with proper theoretical backing, guided practical exercises, and a patient instructor made all the difference. I genuinely feel more confident in winter mountain terrain than I did before.
Polish mountain hut experience. The old building at Morskie Oko is comfortable, characterful, and highly recommended. Big rooms, big beds (which do double duty as gear storage, since there is not enough dedicated storage space, but that is a part of the charm).
The rope catching Piotr's slip on Mniszek (Day 2), was a real-life story illustrating exactly why the course is valuable. The belay worked, my confidence was put on the extreme stress level – but we all made it. Super valuable experience!
My confidence collapse on a summit of Szpiglasowy Wierch. Everyone is saying “the way up is only a half of the experience. We all need to go down”. But facing this fear/tiredness/panic on the top of Szpiglasowy Wierch, reminded me to be humble and to trust my skills and all abilities.
Not all of us are fearless, but we can become – if we want, and if we put effort into it.
Let's sum up our TIPs:
TIP #1: The "old" hut building at Morskie Oko has a fully equipped kitchen where you can cook your own meals. If you plan to use it, would recommend booking your stay in that building specifically.
TIP #2: The "new" hut building has a restaurant but be aware of limited opening hours and the fact that they only accept cash. No card payments.
TIP #3: Bring your own flip flops.
TIP #4: for a visual guide to each of these knots, Damian has step-by-step photo tutorials with explanations on his blog at drytooling.pl/serwis/art/patenty. Please look for a specific knot type.
TIP #5: Dress in layers you can quickly add and remove. Standing in a queue on an exposed icy slope is very different from moving uphill, you can get cold very fast, even in good conditions.
TIP #6: In Switzerland, dedicated winter hiking paths are marked in pink on SchweizMobil – follow those for mid-altitude terrain. For hikes above 3000 m, use the SAC (Swiss Alpine Club) portal for route descriptions and maps specific to winter conditions.
TIP #7: Before buying crampons or an ice axe, think about how often you will use them.
TIP #8: Never underestimate gloves. Take every pair you own. Thin liner gloves, warm midlayer gloves, waterproof shells. You will use all of them at different points, and having cold hands on steep ice or in the exposed parts is not just uncomfortable – it is dangerous.
TIP #9: Get gaiters and always have them with you. Snow getting into your boots melts into your socks and you wll spend the rest of the day with cold, wet feet. Worth every penny.
TIP #10: One useful discovery: after the course I found my summer hiking shoes were no longer waterproof. I treated them with Nikwax, it works really well and extends the life of the shoe significantly.
TIP #11: Make sure your hat fits under your helmet. Try it before you go, many hats are too bulky and leave the helmet sitting too high, which is both uncomfortable and reduces protection.
TIP #12: Take isotonic tablets or electrolytes with you. The water at the mountain hut has no added minerals. After a full day of physical and mental effort in cold conditions, your hydration needs more than plain water.
Continue hiking with us:
Sparrhorn Hike (Valais): Easy 3000 m Alpine Hike with Glacier Views
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*supported by Drytooling.pl, and Garmin